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Haut-Koenigsbourg Castle - History and Visit Guide to Alsace's Mighty Fortress
Haut-Koenigsbourg Castle - History and Visit Guide to Alsace's Mighty Fortress
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Haut-Koenigsbourg Castle - History and Visit Guide to Alsace's Mighty Fortress

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History of Haut-Koenigsbourg: from the Middle Ages to Wilhelm II

The history of Haut-Koenigsbourg is intimately linked to that of Alsace. The first fortifications on this rocky promontory date from the 12th century, when the Hohenstaufen erected a first castle there to watch over and control the trade routes crossing the Vosges. The castle changed hands many times over the centuries, passing from the Hohenstaufen to the Habsburgs, then to the Tiersteins, the Bitche and finally the Habsburg-Lorraine, suffering successive destructions and reconstructions.

In 1462 the castle was seriously damaged during a siege by the Swiss Confederation, then in 1633 it was definitively abandoned after being taken and pillaged by Swedish troops during the Thirty Years' War. For two and a half centuries the fortress remained a romantic ruin, inhabited only by legends and birds of prey nesting in its collapsed towers.

The fate of Haut-Koenigsbourg changed in 1899 when the town of Sélestat, owner of the ruins, gifted them to Emperor Wilhelm II of Germany - Alsace having been under German rule since 1871. Wilhelm II, passionate about medieval history and eager to assert Germanic legitimacy over Alsace, entrusted the restoration of the castle to Berlin architect Bodo Ebhardt, a specialist in medieval fortresses. The work lasted from 1901 to 1908 and gave the castle its current appearance: a spectacular but controversial restoration, faithful in its broad lines to medieval architecture while incorporating sometimes questionable interpretations of the Wilhelmine era.

Architecture and Visiting the Castle

Haut-Koenigsbourg is visited on a marked circuit that allows all the castle's spaces to be discovered in one to two hours depending on the pace chosen. The visit begins with the drawbridge and fortified gate, then continues through the lower courtyard with its stables and garrison lodgings, before accessing the upper courtyard dominated by the keep and the lordly apartments.

The interior apartments, richly furnished in the medieval-Renaissance style according to Wilhelm II's tastes, are particularly impressive. The great banqueting hall with its carved panelling and tapestries, the knights' hall, the armoury with its collection of weapons and armour from the 15th to 17th centuries, and the Gothic chapel are the highlights of the interior visit. Permanent exhibitions trace the history of the castle and the Wilhelmine restoration with great documentary richness.

The highlight of the visit is undoubtedly the terrace of the west bastion at 757 metres altitude. In clear weather - which is frequent in Alsace thanks to the foehn effect - the view extends over the Alsatian plain to the Rhine, over the Black Forest in Germany and the Swiss Alps on the horizon. A breathtaking panorama that alone justifies the visit.

The Controversy of the Wilhelmine Restoration

The restoration of Haut-Koenigsbourg by Bodo Ebhardt is the subject of a still lively historiographical debate. For its defenders, it saved an exceptional monument from definitive ruin and allowed a medieval fortress to be reconstructed in a remarkable state of preservation. For its critics, it is a romantic and nationalist reconstruction that created as much as it restored, adding architectural elements without solid historical foundation to satisfy Wilhelm II's vision of an idealised Germanic castle.

This ambiguity is today an integral part of the history of the site. Haut-Koenigsbourg is simultaneously a testimony to Alsatian medieval architecture and an exceptional document on the political and cultural fantasies of the Wilhelmine Reich. The castle thus raises fascinating questions about the nature of heritage restoration, the political stakes of heritage and the way in which an era reinterprets the past according to its own aspirations.

Haut-Koenigsbourg and Cinema

Haut-Koenigsbourg has served as a setting for many film and television productions since the beginning of the 20th century. Director Jean Renoir filmed there in 1924 "La Fille de l'eau", one of the first great French films. More recently, the castle has hosted shoots for historical television series and European productions attracted by the authenticity of its medieval settings. This cinematographic dimension adds an extra layer to the cultural richness of the site.

The medieval re-enactments regularly organised within the castle precincts - knight combats, demonstrations of medieval crafts, archery and crossbow shooting - attract thousands of visitors every year and bring history to life in a fun and accessible way for all audiences, particularly families with children.

Practical Information for Visiting Haut-Koenigsbourg

Haut-Koenigsbourg castle is open all year round, with varying opening hours depending on the season. In high season (June-August) it is open from 9:15am to 6:00pm. In low season (November-January) hours are reduced and the castle is closed on Mondays. It is strongly advisable to consult the official website before your visit for exact opening hours, admission prices and any exceptional closures.

Access to the castle is by car only or by shuttle from the car park situated a few hundred metres from the entrance. In summer this car park can be full by late morning: arrive before 10am or after 3pm to avoid queues. Several restaurants and refreshment points are available on site for a lunch break or snack.

Haut-Koenigsbourg is accessible from Sélestat in 20 minutes, from Colmar in 35 minutes and from Strasbourg in 1 hour. The castle is not accessible by public transport from neighbouring villages, except during the summer season when a shuttle is sometimes offered from Sélestat.

The Surroundings of Haut-Koenigsbourg

The location of Haut-Koenigsbourg at the heart of the Alsatian Vosges makes it an ideal starting point for exploring the surrounding region. A few kilometres away, the medieval village of Kintzheim is home to the Volerie des Aigles, a free-flight birds of prey show in the ruins of a medieval castle, and the Montagne des Singes, a nature reserve where Barbary macaques roam freely. These two sites, very popular with families, perfectly complement a visit to Haut-Koenigsbourg for a complete day in the Vosges.

The village of Saint-Hippolyte, at the foot of the castle, is known for its renowned Pinot Noir and its cellars open for tasting. Orschwiller and Bergheim, a few kilometres away, also offer fine wine cellars. For hiking enthusiasts, the Alsatian castles trail, which links Haut-Koenigsbourg to other medieval fortresses in the region, is one of the finest walking routes in the Vosges.

The Wines Around Haut-Koenigsbourg

Haut-Koenigsbourg is surrounded by vineyards that rank among the most renowned in Alsace. The villages of Saint-Hippolyte, Orschwiller, Kintzheim and Bergheim produce high-quality wines on well sun-exposed granite and sandstone soils. The Riesling and Pinot Noir from these Vosges terroirs are particularly appreciated for their mineral character and finesse.

After visiting the castle, a tasting at one of the cellars in Saint-Hippolyte or Orschwiller is a natural conclusion. These discreet wine villages, less touristy than Riquewihr or Ribeauvillé, offer a warm welcome and wines of remarkable authenticity. It is the ideal opportunity to bring home a few bottles as a souvenir of an unforgettable day at the foot of the Vosges.

 

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