Wissembourg, nestled in a bend of the Lauter river at the German border, is one of the most charming and least-known...
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The name Schniederspaetzle comes from the Alsatian Schnieder (tailor) and Spaetzle (little pasta). Legend has it that the dish was invented by Alsatian tailors, who spent long hours seated at their work and needed a nourishing, economical and easy-to-prepare meal. True or not, this etymology speaks to the popular and humble character of the dish - a recipe of simple people, made from little, yet of incomparable generosity and fragrance once the onions are properly caramelised. Today, Schniederspaetzle appear on the menu of many Alsatian winstubs, often as an accompaniment to braised meat or served alone as a vegetarian main.
What sets Schniederspaetzle apart from a simple pasta fry-up is the long caramelisation of the onions. There must be no rushing: the onions need to cook over a low heat for 30 to 40 minutes, stirring regularly, until they are soft, translucent and a beautiful amber colour. It is the Maillard reaction and the natural caramelisation of the onion sugars that create this incomparable sweetness and aromatic depth. Any impatience - heat too high, time too short - produces merely cooked onions, without that confit dimension that makes all the difference.
Mix the flour, salt and nutmeg. Gradually work in the eggs and milk to obtain a smooth, thick and slightly elastic batter. Leave to rest in the fridge for 30 minutes. Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Pass the batter through a Spätzle grater or a colander with large holes directly over the boiling water. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes until the pasta rises to the surface. Drain and set aside.
In a large frying pan, melt 40 g of butter with the oil over medium-low heat. Add the sliced onions and the pinch of sugar. Cook, stirring regularly, for 35 to 40 minutes until a beautiful amber colour and a soft texture are achieved. Season with salt only at the end. Set the onions aside in a bowl.
In the same pan, melt the remaining 40 g of butter over high heat. Add the drained pasta and toss for 3 to 4 minutes until lightly golden and slightly crispy at the edges. Return the caramelised onions, fold gently, adjust seasoning. Scatter with parsley and chives. Serve immediately.
Schniederspaetzle lend themselves to many variations:
Spätzle refers to the small fresh pasta of the Rhenish and Swabian tradition, cooked in boiling water. Schniederspaetzle are these same pasta after pan-frying with caramelised onions - the name therefore refers to both the complete dish and the pasta itself. In Alsace, one sometimes also says Spaetzle with onions or pan-fried Spaetzle, but Schniederspaetzle remains the most authentic term, most deeply rooted in local tradition.
Schniederspaetzle perfectly embody the spirit of the Alsatian winstub - those convivial wine taverns where people gather with friends or family around generous dishes and good wines. Served in a large pan placed at the centre of the table, accompanied by a green salad and a jug of Pinot Blanc or Sylvaner, they create an atmosphere of sharing and warm simplicity that captures what is most precious about Alsatian cuisine.
Oval Blue Soufflenheim Dish Daisy 23 cm
Oval Blue Soufflenheim Dish Daisy 30 cm
Oval Blue Soufflenheim Dish Daisy 40 cm
To accompany Schniederspaetzle, dry and mineral Alsatian white wines are the natural choice. Pinot Blanc is the classic pairing - light, fruity and accessible, it does not compete with the flavours of the dish. Sylvaner, with its freshness and herbal notes, is an equally successful alternative. For a version enriched with Munster or bacon, a lightly structured Pinot Gris will be better suited. Avoid overly aromatic wines such as Gewurztraminer, which would overwhelm the delicacy of the caramelised onions.
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