Alsatian Sylvaner is the great misunderstood of Alsatian grape varieties. Less spectacular than Gewurztraminer, less...
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The quetsch - or Alsatian plum - is an oblong variety of plum with blue-violet skin and yellow-green flesh, slightly tart and very fragrant. It has been cultivated in Alsace since the Middle Ages and remains one of the region's most distinctive fruits. Its season is short - from mid-August to late October depending on the variety and altitude - making it a highly anticipated seasonal product.
In Alsace, the quetsch is eaten fresh, as jam, as eau-de-vie (the famous Alsatian Quetsch) and of course as a tart. It is in this last form that it is most appreciated: the heat of the oven reveals its aromas, slightly caramelises the skin and concentrates its sweet-tart flavour in a perfect balance.
The Alsatian quetsch tart comes in two main versions around which very strong family loyalties exist. Shortcrust pastry gives a crispier tart with a well-browned base that contrasts pleasantly with the softness of the cooked plums. This is the most common version in bakeries and pastry shops.
Yeast dough - brioche-style or with baker's yeast - gives a thicker and softer tart, almost like a sweet focaccia with plums. This is often the grandmother's version, more generous and more rustic. Some recipes combine both by adding a layer of pastry cream or custard between the dough and the fruit, giving an even more indulgent tart.
For this recipe, we propose the shortcrust version, the easiest to make and the most versatile.
For the shortcrust pastry: mix 250g flour, 125g cold butter in cubes, a pinch of salt and 2 tablespoons of sugar. Rub together with your fingertips, add 3 to 4 tablespoons of cold water and form a ball without overworking. Refrigerate 30 minutes.
For the filling: wash and stone 800g to 1kg of quetsch plums. Cut in half or into quarters depending on their size. In a bowl, mix 60g sugar, one teaspoon of cinnamon and optionally a pinch of cardamom.
For assembly: roll out the pastry and line a 28-30cm tart tin. Prick the base with a fork. Arrange the plums in tight rows, cut side up, slightly angled in a fan. Sprinkle with the sugar and cinnamon mixture.
For baking: bake at 180°C (fan oven) for 35 to 40 minutes. The pastry should be golden and the plums slightly caramelised. Leave to cool slightly before turning out. The quetsch tart is enjoyed warm or at room temperature, never hot.
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For an even more flavourful tart, sprinkle the pastry base with a thin layer of ground almonds or breadcrumbs before arranging the fruit: this absorbs the plum juice during baking and prevents the base from becoming soggy. Some add chopped hazelnuts or flaked almonds on the fruit before baking.
A very popular variation involves adding a migaine - a mixture of beaten egg, crème fraîche and sugar - over the fruit halfway through baking. Poured carefully over the tart after 20 minutes of cooking, it forms a creamy layer that coats the plums and considerably enriches the dessert.
For those who enjoy more complex flavours, a drizzle of quetsch or mirabelle eau-de-vie over the fruit before baking adds extra aromatic depth much appreciated by adults.
The quetsch tart pairs perfectly with sweet Alsatian white wines. Muscat Vendanges Tardives, with its ripe fruit aromas and natural sweetness, is a classic and refined pairing. Gewurztraminer in a medium-dry or sweet version brings its rose and lychee notes that harmonise beautifully with the sweet-tart flavour of the plums.
For a more original approach, a glass of Crémant d'Alsace brut, with its fine bubbles and freshness, makes a very successful contrasting pairing that lightens the richness of the dessert. Finally, a glass of quetsch eau-de-vie as a digestif, served slightly chilled in a small tulip glass, is the most Alsatian conclusion imaginable.
The quetsch tart keeps at room temperature for up to 24 hours and in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. It freezes well: place directly from frozen in a 150°C oven for 20 minutes to reheat without damaging the pastry texture. It can be prepared the day before and warmed slightly before serving.
For serving, accompany the tart with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or a spoonful of thick Alsatian crème fraîche for an even more generous dessert. A light dusting of icing sugar just before serving gives it a very elegant festive appearance.
Quenches of Alsace and Cinnamon Jam 250 gr
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