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Spätzle - an Alsatian-German word literally meaning "little sparrows" in reference to their irregular shape - are a culinary preparation common to the entire Germanic and Danubian region: Alsace, south-western Germany, German-speaking Switzerland and Austria all claim them as a regional speciality. Their origin dates back at least to the 18th century, when peasant cooks made these economical pasta from flour, eggs and water to accompany the everyday braised dishes.
In Alsace, Spätzle have always occupied a central place in traditional cooking. They accompany jugged hare, coq au Riesling, pheasant with sauerkraut and countless other sauce-based dishes of the regional culinary tradition. Their particular texture - soft but slightly firm, with those small irregularities that catch the sauce - makes them a unique accompaniment unlike any other pasta.
To make homemade Spätzle properly, the Spätzle grater is the traditional utensil par excellence. This simple accessory, consisting of a perforated grid with oblong holes slid over a pan of boiling water, allows the characteristic small irregular pasta to be formed by pressing the dough through the holes. The size of the holes determines the thickness of the Spätzle: larger holes give thicker and more rustic Spätzle, smaller holes give finer and more delicate Spätzle.
There is also a traditional technique involving placing a chopping board on the rim of the pan of boiling water, spreading the dough thinly on it and scraping it into the water with a knife or spatula. This method, more difficult to master, gives Spätzle of a more elongated and irregular shape much appreciated by purists. With a little practice, it gives excellent results without any specific equipment.
Ingredients for 4 people: 300g flour, 3 whole eggs, 10cl water or milk, a pinch of salt, a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg. For finishing: 40g butter and optionally a few leaves of chopped flat-leaf parsley.
Preparing the dough: mix the flour and salt in a large bowl. Make a well in the centre, add the eggs and begin to mix. Gradually incorporate the water or milk until a smooth, homogeneous and slightly sticky dough forms - thicker than a crêpe batter but more fluid than bread dough. Add the nutmeg. The dough should form threads when lifted with a spoon. Leave to rest 15 to 20 minutes at room temperature.
Cooking: bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Place the Spätzle grater on the rim of the pan and pour in a ladleful of dough. Slide the grater back and forth so the dough falls into the boiling water in small irregular pieces. The Spätzle rise to the surface in 1 to 2 minutes when cooked. Remove with a slotted spoon and immediately plunge into a bowl of cold water to stop the cooking. Drain well.
Finishing in butter: melt the butter in a large frying pan over medium heat until it foams lightly and takes on a light hazelnut colour. Add the drained Spätzle and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring regularly, until well golden and slightly crispy in places. Season, add the chopped parsley and serve immediately.
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Spaetzle of Alsace Grand-Mother
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While the basic recipe is delicious in itself, Spätzle lend themselves to many variations that make them even more indulgent. Käsespätzle - cheese Spätzle - are undoubtedly the most popular variation: the cooked Spätzle are layered alternately with grated cheese (Emmental, Gruyère or Munster) and baked in the oven until the cheese is melted and golden. Garnished with crispy fried onions, they make a complete and comforting dish.
Herb Spätzle are obtained by incorporating finely chopped fresh herbs into the basic dough: parsley, chives, blended spinach or watercress. The dough takes on a beautiful green colour and a very pleasant fresh fragrance. Spätzle with Espelette pepper or spices are a more contemporary variation much enjoyed as an accompaniment to strong sauce dishes.
For an even richer and creamier version, replace some of the water with thick crème fraîche in the dough: the Spätzle will be softer and more flavourful. Some cooks also add a splash of Alsatian white wine to the dough for a very interesting extra aromatic note.
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Butter-browned Spätzle nature are the ideal accompaniment to a wide variety of Alsatian dishes and beyond. They advantageously replace potatoes or rice in most sauce recipes: coq au Riesling, rabbit with mustard, braised beef cheeks, chicken fricassée with mushrooms or veal in cream are all dishes that pair perfectly with Spätzle.
For a very Alsatian vegetarian meal, serve the Spätzle with melted Munster with caraway, a few mushrooms sautéed with garlic and parsley and a green salad on the side. For a mountain-style dish, pair them with an Alsatian raclette with new potatoes and smoked regional charcuterie.
Leftover Spätzle reheat very well in a pan with a little butter or oil. They can also be used the next morning as the base of a quick gratin with eggs, cheese and lardons for a very hearty breakfast or brunch.
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Butter-browned Spätzle nature, as an accompaniment to a sauce dish, pair naturally with Alsatian white wines. Pinot Gris is the ideal companion: its creamy texture and notes of honey and spices harmonise beautifully with the browned butter and the mildness of the pasta. Dry Riesling brings a fresh acidity that balances the richness of a cream sauce. For red wine lovers, a light and fruity Alsatian Pinot Noir accompanies Spätzle served with a meat dish perfectly.
For Käsespätzle with Munster, a glass of medium-dry Gewurztraminer or a Pinot Gris Vendanges Tardives creates a regional pairing of great coherence. The aromatic power of Munster calls for a wine expressive enough not to be overwhelmed by the cheese.
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