Kougelhopf, Symbol of Alsatian Baking
Kougelhopf is undoubtedly the most emblematic cake of Alsace. Its fluted crown shape, obtained thanks to the traditional Soufflenheim terracotta mould, is immediately recognisable and intimately linked to the image of Alsace throughout the world. Present in Alsatian bakeries and pastry shops since at least the 17th century, it is traditionally prepared for special occasions: family celebrations, weddings, christenings and festivities of all kinds.
While the sweet kougelhopf - scented with orange blossom, filled with raisins macerated in kirsch and dusted with icing sugar - is the best known, the savoury version is an original and equally delicious alternative. Having appeared more recently in Alsatian kitchens, it adapts the technique of leavened brioche dough to create a festive and generous bread that lends itself to countless variations according to tastes and seasons.
The Soufflenheim Kougelhopf Mould: an Essential Tool
The Soufflenheim terracotta kougelhopf mould is far more than a simple kitchen utensil: it is an object steeped in history and tradition that fully participates in the unique character of the cake. The porous terracotta of Soufflenheim, fired at high temperature in the kilns of artisan pottery workshops, possesses exceptional thermal properties: it heats progressively and evenly, allowing a homogeneous baking of the kougelhopf which thus develops a golden and crispy crust while remaining soft at heart.
Soufflenheim kougelhopf moulds are recognisable by their hand-painted decorations: flower, wheat ear, stork or Alsatian landscape motifs in the characteristic colours of Soufflenheim pottery - blue, yellow, green and red on a cream background. Each mould is unique and can be passed down from generation to generation if cared for. Before first use, it is advisable to soak the mould in cold water for an hour and coat it generously with butter to season it.
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The Savoury Kougelhopf Recipe with Lardons and Walnuts
Ingredients for a 22-24cm mould: 500g flour, 20g fresh baker's yeast, 25cl warm milk, 3 eggs, 80g soft butter, 1 teaspoon salt, 200g smoked lardons, 80g roughly chopped walnut kernels, 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley, 1 tablespoon fresh thyme, 50g grated gruyère and butter for the mould.
Preparing the dough: dissolve the yeast with a pinch of sugar in the warm milk. Leave to rest 10 minutes until the yeast froths. In a large bowl, mix the flour and salt, make a well in the centre, add the eggs and the milk-yeast mixture. Knead for 5 minutes, incorporate the soft butter in pieces and knead for another 10 minutes until a smooth, supple and slightly sticky dough forms. Cover and leave to rise for 1.5 hours at room temperature.
The filling: cook the lardons in a dry frying pan until lightly golden. Drain on kitchen paper and leave to cool. Gently fold the lardons, walnuts, parsley, thyme and gruyère into the risen dough without overworking it.
Shaping and baking: butter the kougelhopf mould generously. Pour in the dough, spreading it evenly. Cover and leave to rise for a further 45 minutes to 1 hour until the dough reaches the rim of the mould. Bake at 180°C for 35 to 40 minutes. The kougelhopf is done when a wooden skewer comes out clean and the surface is well golden. Turn out immediately onto a wire rack and leave to cool for at least 20 minutes before slicing.
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Savoury Kougelhopf Variations
Savoury kougelhopf lends itself to countless variations that allow it to be adapted to the seasons and individual tastes. The olive and sun-dried tomato version with rosemary brings a Mediterranean touch much appreciated in summer. The Roquefort and walnut version is ideal for lovers of strong cheeses. The smoked salmon and dill version is perfect for an elegant buffet or festive brunch.
For an even more Alsatian version, replace the lardons with diced Munster AOP and caraway: the result is a kougelhopf with a well-defined character that will delight lovers of pronounced flavours. A spinach and fresh goat's cheese version is perfectly suited to vegetarians while remaining generous and flavourful.
The quantity of filling can be adjusted according to preferences: for a very generously filled kougelhopf, increase the lardons to 250g and the walnuts to 100g. For a lighter and more airy version, reduce the quantities slightly while retaining the fresh herbs for fragrance.
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Tasting and Serving Tips
Savoury kougelhopf is ideally enjoyed warm, 20 to 30 minutes out of the oven. At this temperature, the crumb is still supple and the aromas of the lardons and herbs reveal themselves fully. It can be served as is in slices or accompanied by a homemade herb butter, a lightly salted thick crème fraîche or a fresh herb cream cheese.
For an aperitif, cut the kougelhopf into thin slices arranged upright in a fan on a platter. For a starter, serve a thick slice with a green salad dressed with Dijon mustard vinaigrette. For a buffet, the kougelhopf can be cut into cubes and served on cocktail skewers.
Savoury kougelhopf keeps at room temperature wrapped in a clean kitchen towel for up to 2 days. It freezes perfectly sliced: leave slices at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving or warm them for a few minutes in a 150°C oven to restore their softness.
Making Your Own Kougelhopf: Kits and Accessories
To start making homemade kougelhopf, several kits and accessories are available to make the task easier. A good Soufflenheim terracotta mould is of course the priority investment: it will last a lifetime and give your kougelhopfs an impeccable shape and bake. A stand mixer with a dough hook will considerably ease the work of the brioche dough which requires prolonged kneading.
For beginners, baking kits including prepared flour, detailed instructions and sometimes even yeast and dry ingredients allow a first kougelhopf to be made successfully without difficulty. These kits are also very beautiful gifts for Alsatian cooking enthusiasts who wish to venture into the homemade production of this emblematic cake.
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