History of Alsatian Sweet Wines - a Late Recognition
The history of Vendanges Tardives in Alsace is intimately linked to the Hugel estate in Ribeauvillé. Jean Hugel succeeded in 1976 in obtaining official recognition for two new appellations for sweet Alsatian wines, after years of lobbying with French wine authorities. These two appellations, Vendanges Tardives (VT) and Sélection de Grains Nobles (SGN), were officially codified in French wine legislation in 1984.
Vendanges Tardives - Over-Ripeness without Noble Rot
The Vendanges Tardives are produced from grapes harvested after the normal vintage, when the berries have accumulated sufficient sugar through simple over-ripeness. Strict minimum potential alcohol levels are set by regulation:
- Riesling and Muscat: minimum 235 grams of sugar per litre of must
- Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer: minimum 257 grams of sugar per litre of must
VT can be vinified dry, off-dry or sweet depending on the winemaker's intentions and the vintage characteristics.
Sélection de Grains Nobles - the Summit of Alsatian Viticulture
The Sélection de Grains Nobles is the absolute pinnacle of the Alsatian quality pyramid. These wines can only be produced from grapes affected by noble rot - Botrytis cinerea, the same fungus responsible for great Sauternes. The botrytised grapes must be sorted berry by berry in multiple passes through the vineyard. Minimum must weights are even stricter:
- Riesling and Muscat: minimum 276 grams of sugar per litre of must
- Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer: minimum 306 grams of sugar per litre of must
The Grape Varieties - Four Nobles for Two Appellations
- Gewurztraminer VT and SGN: the most opulent and most immediately seductive, with incomparable intensity of rose, lychee and exotic spice aromas
- Pinot Gris VT and SGN: more structured and more vinous, with notes of candied fruit, white truffle and smoke
- Riesling VT and SGN: the most balanced, retaining even in very sweet versions an acidity and minerality that give incomparable tension - Riesling SGN can age 50 years or more
- Muscat VT and SGN: the rarest and most difficult to produce, with incomparable delicacy and finesse
The Great Vintages - When Weather Creates Legends
- 1976: the year of official recognition, with exceptional heat
- 1989 and 1990: two consecutive exceptional vintages
- 2001: the noble rot vintage par excellence in Alsace
- 2007: late and concentrated, with good acidity
- 2015: warm and early, with opulent SGN
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How to Taste and Store VT and SGN
- Serving temperature: 10-12°C for VT, 8-10°C for SGN
- The glass: a wide Burgundy-style white wine glass to appreciate the complex aromas
- Storage: a VT from a good vintage can keep 10-20 years; an SGN from a great vintage can age 30-50 years or more
- Opening: young VT and SGN can be opened 30 minutes to 1 hour before serving
Food and Wine Pairings
- Alsatian foie gras: the classic and unsurpassable pairing
- Blue cheeses: Roquefort, Bleu de Gex, Stilton - the contrast between salty bitterness and sweet richness creates a remarkable pairing
- Fruit desserts: Tarte Tatin, peach crumble - VT accompany fruity desserts wonderfully
- Alone: the most concentrated SGN need no accompaniment - they constitute a complete gastronomic experience in themselves
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