Fleischschnaka - literally "meat snails" in Alsatian - are one of the most endearing dishes of traditional Alsatian...
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Fleischschnaka - literally "meat snails" in Alsatian - are one of the most endearing dishes of traditional Alsatian...
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Fleischschnaka are a typically Alsatian dish whose origins date back to the farmhouse cooking of the 18th century. Like many great regional dishes, they were born of practical necessity: using up the leftover braised or boiled meat from the previous day's pot-au-feu or baeckeoffe. Finely minced and seasoned, this meat was wrapped in fresh pasta dough rolled into a snail shape - hence their Alsatian name - then poached in the cooking broth.
This dish, long confined to family kitchens, enjoyed a revival of interest in the 1990s with the movement to revalue Alsatian regional cuisine. It is now found in many Alsatian winstubs and brasseries, where it is traditionally served with a green salad dressed with walnut oil vinaigrette.
The success of Fleischschnaka rests on two essential elements: well-braised and flavourful meat, and a supple and fine pasta dough. For the meat, beef braised in Riesling is the most common version, but veal, pork or a mix of meats can also be used. The essential point is that the meat should be very tender and full of flavour after a long cooking time.
The pasta dough is a simple dough made from flour, eggs and a little salt. It must be thin enough to roll easily around the filling without tearing, yet thick enough to hold together during cooking. A rest of at least 30 minutes in the refrigerator after kneading is essential to obtain a supple and easy-to-work dough.
For the dough: mix 300g flour, 3 eggs, a pinch of salt and a little water if needed. Knead until smooth and homogeneous, wrap in cling film and rest 30 minutes in the refrigerator.
For the filling: finely mince 500g cooked braised beef, mix with one onion softened in butter, two eggs, chopped parsley, salt, pepper and a pinch of nutmeg. The filling should be well bound and flavourful.
For assembly: roll the dough into a thin rectangle (2-3mm). Spread the filling evenly, leaving a 2cm border around the edges. Roll tightly into a cylinder, wrap in cling film and refrigerate 30 minutes to firm up. Then cut into 2-3cm thick slices.
For cooking: bring a beef broth scented with Riesling, a few peppercorns and a bouquet garni to a gentle simmer. Carefully lower in the Fleischschnaka and poach for 20 minutes over low heat without boiling. Serve immediately in deep bowls with a little broth and a green salad.
Aperitif Recipe Book in Alsace and Elsewhere
Alsace salty specialties recipe book
Like all great traditional dishes, Fleischschnaka have many variations depending on the family and village. Some add lardons to the filling for extra richness. Others incorporate sautéed mushrooms or spinach for a more vegetable-forward version. In northern Alsace, one sometimes finds Fleischschnaka with sauerkraut, where the filling is mixed with finely chopped sauerkraut for a very typical result.
The dough can also vary: some recipes use a thicker dough closer to Spaetzle, others a durum wheat semolina dough for more firmness. What matters most is the quality of the filling and the delicacy of the poaching broth.
Fleischschnaka pair naturally with dry Alsatian white wines. Riesling, already used in the cooking, is the ideal companion: its minerality and vivacity counterbalance the generous and rich character of the dish. A supple and fruity Pinot Blanc is also an excellent option for a more accessible pairing. For red wine lovers, a light and fruity Alsatian Pinot Noir, served slightly chilled, also pairs well with this meat dish.
Alsatian beer is a perfectly legitimate alternative for this farmhouse-inspired dish: a light lager or an amber ale with malt notes accompanies the Fleischschnaka and their scented broth beautifully.
Recipe book of Munster, a terroir cheese
The key to perfect Fleischschnaka lies in the quality of the poaching broth. Do not use plain water but a good homemade or quality beef broth, scented with Riesling, a few peppercorns and a bouquet garni. This broth can be served as a starter before the Fleischschnaka for a very Alsatian opening to the meal.
The filled pasta roll must be tightly rolled so that the slices do not fall apart during cooking. If you do not have cling film, you can tie the roll with kitchen twine. The refrigerator rest before slicing is essential.
Fleischschnaka can be prepared ahead up to the slicing stage and kept in the refrigerator for several hours before cooking. They also reheat very well in the broth the next day, making them a practical dish for family meals.
To make Fleischschnaka properly, a few pieces of equipment are particularly useful. A pasta machine or sturdy rolling pin for rolling the dough thinly. A large saucepan or casserole for poaching, wide enough so the rolls do not overlap. A sharp knife for cutting clean slices without crushing the roll. And of course a beautiful terrine or Alsatian deep bowls for serving, which will show off this traditional dish in all its splendour.
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