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Pinot Auxerrois - or simply Auxerrois - is one of the most widely cultivated grape varieties in Alsace but also one of the least known to the general public. The reason for this paradoxical obscurity is simple: Pinot Auxerrois is rarely vinified alone and sold under its own name. It is most often blended with Pinot Blanc to produce wines sold under the generic appellation "Pinot Blanc" or "Klevener" - the Alsatian name for Pinot Blanc. This legal and common practice masks the true contribution of Auxerrois to the aromatic identity of many Alsatian wines.
Yet Pinot Auxerrois has its own personality and characteristics clearly distinct from its cousin Pinot Blanc. More generous, richer and more aromatic, it brings roundness and richness to the wine that explain its success among Alsatian winemakers. Some estates, aware of its value, choose to vinify it alone and sell it under its own name - an initiative to be encouraged as these wines are so revealing of the underestimated potential of this variety.
The origin of Pinot Auxerrois is still debated by ampelographers. Its name suggests a Burgundian origin - Auxerre is a town in the Yonne - but recent genetic analyses have shown that this variety is distinct from Chardonnay and the other Pinots and constitutes a variety in its own right. It is thought to be related to Pinot Noir through a common ancestor, sharing with it the morphology of the bunch but not the colour of the berries.
In Alsace, Pinot Auxerrois has been cultivated since at least the 16th century. It has adapted particularly well to the terroirs of the plain and the Vosges foothill hills, where its naturally generous yields made it a popular variety among winemakers concerned with productivity. Today it represents around 7 to 8% of the Alsatian vineyard, a proportion stable for several decades.
Confusion between Pinot Auxerrois and Pinot Blanc is common, even among informed enthusiasts. Here are the main differences that allow them to be distinguished:
The bunch: Auxerrois has looser bunches than Pinot Blanc, with slightly larger berries and thinner skin. This thin skin makes it more susceptible to rot in wet weather.
The aromatic profile: Auxerrois is more generous and more expressive than Pinot Blanc. Its aromas of ripe white fruits - peach, pear, apricot - are more pronounced, accompanied by notes of honey and white flowers. On the palate it is richer, more velvety and fuller than Pinot Blanc, with less pronounced natural acidity.
Ageing potential: Pinot Blanc generally ages better than Auxerrois, thanks to its higher acidity which gives it greater freshness over time. Auxerrois, more opulent in youth, can evolve quickly towards honey and wax notes that please some enthusiasts but may disappoint those seeking freshness.
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It is perhaps in Crémant d'Alsace that Pinot Auxerrois best reveals its potential. A widely used base variety in the production of Alsatian sparkling wines, it brings to Crémant the roundness, richness and aromatic complexity that is sometimes lacking in blends too dominated by Riesling or Pinot Blanc. The finest Crémants d'Alsace are often those that incorporate a significant proportion of Auxerrois in their blend.
Its contribution to Crémant is particularly appreciated for prestige cuvées and vintage sparkling wines, where the richness and aromatic complexity of Auxerrois blend harmoniously with the freshness of Riesling and the delicacy of Pinot Blanc. Crémant producers generally guard the secret of their blends jealously, but Auxerrois often plays a central role.
Pinot Auxerrois vinified alone is a generous and easy-to-pair table wine. Its richness and creaminess make it an ideal companion for dishes in creamy sauces: poultry in cream, blanquette de veau, mushroom fricassée, truffle risotto or fresh pasta in browned butter pair admirably with this generous variety.
It also pairs very well with fine Alsatian charcuterie - terrines, pâté en croûte, foie gras - where its aromatic richness enters into dialogue with the complexity of the preparations. For cheeses, Auxerrois perfectly accompanies washed-rind soft cheeses such as Munster, Epoisses or Maroilles, underlining their power without masking it.
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Finding a Pinot Auxerrois vinified alone requires a little research as this variety is rarely highlighted on labels. Estates that offer it as a single varietal wine are generally producers concerned with showcasing their terroir and explaining the biodiversity of the Alsatian vineyard - a guarantee of seriousness and quality.
On the label, look for the mention "Auxerrois" alone, without the term "Pinot". A wine labelled "Pinot Blanc" may contain Auxerrois in variable proportion without this being indicated. Some producers mention "Pinot Blanc - Auxerrois" to signal a blend of both varieties, a precious indication for the enthusiast.
For tasting, a good Auxerrois is characterised by its often deeper golden colour than that of a Pinot Blanc, its generous aromas of ripe fruits and honey, and its ample and creamy palate. Drink it young - within two to three years of harvest - to enjoy all its fruity generosity before the honey notes become too dominant.
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