Alsatian Frog Soup - The Recipe from the Ried

The Frog in Alsatian Culinary Tradition

The frog occupies a particular place in Alsatian and more broadly Rhenish culinary tradition. The wetlands of the Alsatian Ried - this floodable alluvial plain bordering the Rhine along its entire length - once constituted an exceptional habitat for green frog populations of an abundance difficult to imagine today. Fishermen and villagers of the Ried caught them in large quantities and prepared them in multiple ways: fried, fricassée, gratin or soup.

This culinary tradition of the frog, common to the entire Rhenish region - Alsace, Baden-Württemberg, Lorraine - gradually faded during the 20th century under the combined effect of the decline of wild frogs - now protected - and changing food habits. Today, frogs used in cooking come almost exclusively from farms, mainly in South-East Asia, and are available frozen in fishmongers and delicatessens.

The Alsatian Ried, Land of Frogs

The Alsatian Ried is a natural area of exceptional ecological importance. This alluvial plain, formed by the successive deposits of the Rhine and its tributaries, is characterised by its wet meadows, gallery forests, oxbow lakes and irrigation ditches that create a complex hydrographic network very rich in biodiversity. It is one of the last great preserved natural spaces of the Alsatian plain.

Once populated with green frogs in considerable quantities, the Ried still hosts significant amphibian populations today, protected since 1979. The white stork, emblem of Alsace, also finds much of its food here. Hiking in the Ried, particularly around Erstein, Sélestat or Rhinau, is an exceptional natural experience that allows one to understand why this region was so long associated with the culinary tradition of the frog.

The Alsatian Frog Soup Recipe

Ingredients for 4 people: 500g frogs' legs (fresh or defrosted frozen), 1 sliced onion, 2 finely chopped shallots, 3 garlic cloves, 20cl Alsatian Riesling, 50cl chicken stock, 20cl thick Alsatian crème fraîche, 30g butter, a bunch of flat-leaf parsley, salt, white pepper, a pinch of nutmeg and a few fresh tarragon leaves.

Preparation: dry the frogs' legs carefully and season with salt and pepper. Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Soften the onion and shallots for 5 minutes until translucent. Add the chopped garlic and cook for 1 minute. Pour in the Riesling and reduce by half over high heat. Add the chicken stock and bring to a gentle simmer.

Cooking the frogs: plunge the frogs' legs into the simmering stock and poach for 5 to 7 minutes over very low heat - they must be just cooked, still slightly pearlescent at the heart. Remove carefully with a slotted spoon and keep warm. Strain the stock.

Finishing: return the strained stock to the heat, stir in the crème fraîche and reduce for 5 minutes to obtain a lightly coating velouté. Add the nutmeg, adjust the seasoning. Divide the frogs' legs among preheated deep bowls, pour the hot velouté over, scatter with snipped flat-leaf parsley and tarragon and serve immediately.

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Riesling from Alsace Tradition 75 cl

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Pinot Gris of Alsace Tradition 75 cl

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Variations and Enrichments

Alsatian frog soup lends itself to many variations according to taste and season. For a more rustic and richer version, add a few smoked lardons fried in a pan and wild mushrooms - chanterelles or morels - that harmonise magnificently with the delicacy of the frogs. For a spring version, incorporate fresh peas, white asparagus tips or a sorrel chiffonade that bring a very refreshing tart note.

Some Alsatian cooks add a few Knepfle - small fresh pasta - to the soup to make a more substantial dish. Others offer a gratin version where the frogs' legs are arranged in individual ramekins, coated with the creamy sauce and passed for a few minutes under the grill with a thin layer of grated gruyère.

Food and Wine Pairings

Alsatian frog soup naturally calls for a dry Alsatian white wine. Riesling, already used in the recipe, is the most classic and coherent pairing: its minerality and fresh acidity counterbalance the richness of the cream and showcase the delicacy of the frogs. A Wine Route Riesling, dry and well mineral, served between 8 and 10°C, is the ideal companion.

Dry or slightly medium-dry Gewurztraminer can surprise but makes a very successful bold pairing: its floral and spiced notes create an interesting contrast with the sobriety of the soup. Pinot Gris, creamier and less acidic, is a third option for those who prefer a rounder and more generous pairing.

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