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Heiligenstein is a village of some 1,500 inhabitants nestled at the foot of the Vosges in the Bas-Rhin, about ten kilometres south-west of Obernai. Like its neighbours Boersch, Ottrott and Saint-Nabor, it belongs to that string of wine villages spread along the first Vosges foothills between Obernai and Barr. Its historic centre, with its well-preserved half-timbered houses, cobbled lanes and fine church of Saint-Pierre-et-Paul, bears witness to a rich medieval past and a wine-growing tradition going back several centuries.
The Heiligenstein vineyard extends over the south-east-facing slopes of the village at altitudes between 200 and 350 metres. The soils, dominated by Vosges sandstone and loess, give the local wines a characteristic minerality and freshness. But it is above all the presence of the Klevener that distinguishes Heiligenstein from all other Alsatian wine villages and has earned it an international reputation among lovers of rare wines.
The Klevener de Heiligenstein is undoubtedly the greatest viticultural curiosity of Alsace. This pink-berried variety, related to Traminer - the common ancestor of Gewurztraminer and Savagnin - is cultivated exclusively on the territory of the commune of Heiligenstein and a few immediately neighbouring villages. Nowhere else in France, nowhere else in the world, is this grape variety found under this name and in this particular expression.
The history of the Klevener dates back to the 18th century, when a local wine merchant, Johann Ehrhard, brought this grape variety back from the Austrian Tyrol around 1742. Planted on the slopes of Heiligenstein, the Klevener found particularly favourable conditions there and developed a unique character that distinguishes it from its Tyrolean cousin. Over the generations, Heiligenstein's winemakers have selected and preserved this exceptional ampelographic heritage, making their village the exclusive guardian of a grape variety that could have disappeared.
It is important not to confuse the Klevener de Heiligenstein with Klevener (or Clevner), the Alsatian name for Pinot Blanc. These are two completely different grape varieties: the Klevener de Heiligenstein is a pink-berried, aromatic variety related to Traminer, while Klevener-Clevner is a neutral white variety from the Pinot family.
The Klevener de Heiligenstein is distinguished by a delicate and elegant aromatic profile, halfway between the floral finesse of Gewurztraminer and the lightness of Pinot Blanc. One finds first notes of fresh rose and white flowers, accompanied by gentle spices - light cinnamon, white pepper - and sometimes a touch of white peach or apricot.
On the palate, the Klevener reveals itself generally dry or slightly medium-dry, with a supple texture and moderate acidity that gives it great drinkability. Its alcohol level - typically between 12 and 13% - makes it a balanced and accessible wine, without the sometimes intimidating power of Gewurztraminer. With age - three to five years for the finest cuvées - it develops very elegant notes of light honey and beeswax.
The particularity of the Klevener is that it sits at the crossroads of two worlds: it has the aromatic expressiveness of noble Alsatian grape varieties without their potential heaviness, and the lightness of discreet varieties without their lack of personality. It is a wine of assertive character but never overwhelming, accompanying the table with an aristocratic discretion much appreciated by connoisseurs.
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The Klevener de Heiligenstein has benefited from a specific appellation d'origine contrôlée since 1979, a recognition unique in Alsace for a wine linked to a single village. This AOC, enshrined in the Alsatian wines decree, precisely defines the production zone - the commune of Heiligenstein and a few plots in neighbouring communes - as well as the winemaking rules and minimum sugar levels.
Total production of Klevener de Heiligenstein remains modest: around 25 to 30 hectares of vines produce a few tens of thousands of bottles per year, divided among around ten wine estates. This relative rarity makes it a sought-after wine among collectors and lovers of viticultural curiosities, even if prices generally remain very reasonable compared to other rare wines of the world vineyard.
The Klevener de Heiligenstein is a versatile table wine that happily accompanies a wide variety of Alsatian dishes and beyond. Its floral and spiced notes make it an ideal companion for fine Alsatian charcuterie - cervelas with horseradish, pâté en croûte, pan-fried foie gras - where its subtle aromas enter into dialogue with the richness of the preparations without overwhelming them.
It also pairs very well with fish in light sauces, shellfish, herb-roasted poultry and soft cheeses. For more typical Alsatian dishes, it accompanies tarte flambée with onions and lardons, young Munster and farmhouse terrines wonderfully. In a slightly sweet version - some winemakers offer late harvest cuvées - it finds a remarkable pairing with Alsatian foie gras and yellow fruit desserts.
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Heiligenstein is easily visited from Obernai, about ten minutes by car along the Vosges foothill villages road. The village deserves a quiet stroll through its lanes, a visit to the church of Saint-Pierre-et-Paul and of course a stop at one of the village's wine cellars to taste the Klevener directly from its producer.
Heiligenstein's winemakers generally welcome visitors for tastings by appointment or during the open days organised in spring and autumn. This is the ideal opportunity to meet the guardians of this unique grape variety, to understand their attachment to this exceptional wine heritage and to leave with a few bottles of a wine found nowhere else.
The village is also the starting point for fine hikes on the first Vosges slopes, notably towards Ottrott castle and the ruins of Saint-Léon castle. The wine trail winding between the vines offers superb views over the Alsatian plain and allows one to understand the particularities of the terroir that make the Klevener unique.
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