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Schenkele are one of the oldest Christmas biscuit specialities of Alsace. Their origin dates back at least to the 18th century, when Alsatian cooks prepared these small fried biscuits for the Advent and Christmas festivities. Their Alsatian name - Schenkele, diminutive of Schenkel meaning "thigh" - refers to their elongated, slightly rounded shape that vaguely evokes a small chicken thigh.
Unlike Bredele and other Alsatian Christmas biscuits baked in the oven, Schenkele use frying as their cooking method - a unique feature in Alsatian biscuit tradition. This ancient technique, inherited from an era when individual ovens were rare and cooking in fat was more common, gives Schenkele a texture and taste that oven baking cannot reproduce.
Today, Schenkele tend to be forgotten in favour of the more easily made and better-known Bredele. Yet in many Alsatian families, the recipe is still passed down from generation to generation as a jealously guarded culinary treasure. Rediscovering and making them means reconnecting with an authentic and delicious Christmas tradition.
Schenkele dough is based on eggs, sugar, flour and almonds - the four fundamental ingredients found in most Alsatian Christmas biscuits. The particularity of Schenkele lies in the addition of kirsch - cherry eau-de-vie - which scents the dough with a very characteristic fruity and alcoholic note, and lemon zest which brings a welcome aromatic freshness.
Flour is used in moderate quantity, giving a relatively supple and not very dense dough - the opposite of shortbread. The finely ground almonds provide a slightly grainy texture and an intense fragrance that reveals itself fully during frying. Cinnamon, added in small quantity, completes the aromatic profile without dominating.
For frying, a neutral oil - sunflower or groundnut - is used at a precise temperature of 170-175°C. A temperature too low gives greasy and heavy Schenkele; a temperature too high burns the outside before the inside is cooked. A kitchen thermometer is the essential tool for succeeding at this crucial step.
Ingredients for approximately 60 Schenkele: 3 eggs, 200g sugar, 100g ground almonds, 300g flour, 2 tablespoons kirsch, the zest of one untreated lemon, half a teaspoon cinnamon, a pinch of salt. For finishing: vanilla sugar or sugar-cinnamon mixture for rolling the Schenkele after frying. Frying oil in sufficient quantity.
Preparing the dough: beat the eggs with the sugar until the mixture whitens and becomes frothy. Add the kirsch, lemon zest and cinnamon. Incorporate the ground almonds, then the sifted flour and salt. Mix until a smooth, supple but non-sticky dough forms. If the dough is too soft, add a little more flour. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour - the dough holds its shape much better when cold.
Shaping: take small portions of dough the size of a walnut. Roll between lightly floured palms to form 5 to 6cm long rolls, slightly tapered at the ends and rounded in the centre - the characteristic shape of the "little thigh". Place on a floured tray as you go.
Frying: heat the oil to 170-175°C in a saucepan or deep-fryer. Plunge the Schenkele in small batches (6 to 8 maximum at a time) to avoid dropping the oil temperature. Fry for 3 to 4 minutes, turning halfway through, until evenly golden. Drain on kitchen paper and roll immediately in vanilla sugar or the sugar-cinnamon mixture while still hot.
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The success of Schenkele rests on a few technical points to master. Oil temperature is the most critical factor: too cold, the oil penetrates the biscuits making them greasy and heavy; too hot, the outside burns before the inside is cooked. Use a kitchen thermometer and adjust the heat between batches to maintain a constant temperature.
Dough consistency is the second crucial point. It must be firm enough for the rolls to hold their shape during frying, but supple enough to be easy to shape. If the dough is too soft, add flour in small quantities. If too hard, a tablespoon of extra kirsch can soften it.
Refrigerator rest is essential: cold dough is much easier to shape and holds its form better during frying. If you have time, prepare the dough the day before and leave it to rest overnight in the refrigerator.
For storage, Schenkele keep in an airtight metal tin for up to three weeks, like all Alsatian Christmas biscuits. They are even better after two or three days of rest, when the aromas have developed fully and the texture has stabilised.
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The basic Schenkele recipe has some interesting regional and family variations. Some recipes replace kirsch with rum, mirabelle eau-de-vie or simply vanilla extract for an alcohol-free version suitable for children. Others add a teaspoon of baking powder to lighten the texture slightly and obtain more airy biscuits.
For a more festive version, some cooks dip the cooled Schenkele in melted chocolate - dark, milk or white - instead of vanilla sugar. The result is visually spectacular and delicious, halfway between a traditional Christmas biscuit and a chocolate confection.
In some Alsatian families from the north, Schenkele are made with ground hazelnuts instead of almonds, giving a slightly different aromatic profile - more earthy and intense. This version is particularly popular with lovers of pronounced flavours.
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Schenkele are traditionally enjoyed with a glass of Alsatian mulled wine at Christmas markets, or with a cup of black tea or coffee after a meal. Their sweet mildness and almond and cinnamon aromas pair perfectly with sweet Alsatian white wines: a Gewurztraminer with rose and honey notes, a slightly sweet Muscat or a medium-dry Crémant d'Alsace are excellent companions for these small fried biscuits.
For a festive presentation, arrange the Schenkele in a beautifully decorated metal tin or on a wooden serving board, mixed with other Alsatian Bredele. They also make a very appreciated Christmas gift, especially for people discovering for the first time this little-known speciality of the Alsatian biscuit tradition.
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Schenkele are part of the rich tradition of Alsatian Advent baking. In Alsace, the preparation of Christmas biscuits - Bredele in the broad sense - is a family ritual that traditionally takes place on the first Advent weekend. The whole family gathers in the kitchen to prepare dozens of varieties of biscuits that will then be stored in metal tins and shared throughout December.
Schenkele, with their frying technique that requires a little more attention and dexterity than ordinary biscuits, are often reserved for the most experienced cooks in the family. Their preparation is a moment of transmission of culinary know-how between generations, an act of gustatory memory that perpetuates a centuries-old tradition.
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