Matelote of the Rhine - The Traditional Recipe with River Fish and Riesling

The Rhine - Life-giving River of Alsace

Before becoming a border, the Rhine was for centuries a source of life and sustenance for the Alsatian population. Rhine fishermen supplied the markets of Strasbourg, Colmar and the towns of the Upper Rhine with freshwater fish. Carp, pike, perch, eels, tench and roach formed the basis of a riverside cuisine now largely forgotten. The Matelote of the Rhine is its crowning achievement - a noble and generous preparation that transforms these fish into a refined stew, simmered in Alsatian white wine and seasoned with aromatics.

History and Origins of the Matelote

The term matelote in French cooking refers to a fish stew cooked in wine - white or red. In Alsace, the Riesling version established itself naturally - the vineyard is omnipresent and Riesling makes the perfect match for freshwater fish. The first documented recipes for Matelote of the Rhine date to the 18th century, from the inns along the Rhine that served boatmen and passing merchants a simple, hearty cuisine rooted in the local terroir. Today, Matelote of the Rhine has become a celebratory dish, served on special occasions and in Alsatian gastronomic restaurants.

The Fish - Selection and Preparation

The richness of the Matelote lies in the variety of fish used. Tradition calls for at least three or four varieties to be combined for a complex, nuanced sauce. The essential ones are:

• Carp: firm, flavourful flesh that gives body to the sauce
• Pike: fine and delicate flesh that brings elegance
• Perch: white, firm flesh with a slightly sweet flavour
• Eel: rich, melting flesh that enriches the sauce with particular unctuousness
• Tench: mild, slightly earthy flesh, typically Rhenish

All fish must be gutted, scaled and cut into equal-sized pieces. A one-hour marinade in Riesling with aromatics noticeably improves the final result.

The Traditional Recipe

Ingredients (serves 6)

• 1.5 kg mixed freshwater fish (carp, pike, perch, eel)
• 75 cl Alsatian Riesling
• 25 cl fish stock
• 20 cl thick crème fraîche
• 4 shallots, finely sliced
• 200 g button mushrooms, sliced
• 2 garlic cloves
• 60 g unsalted butter
• 1 bouquet garni (thyme, bay, parsley)
• 2 tbsp plain flour
• Salt, white pepper from the mill
• Chopped flat-leaf parsley to serve

Method

Marinate the fish pieces in the Riesling with the bouquet garni for 1 hour in the fridge. Drain the fish, reserving the marinade. In a large casserole, melt the butter and sweat the shallots and garlic for 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook for 3 minutes. Dust lightly with flour and stir. Pour in the reserved marinade and the fish stock. Bring to a simmer and reduce for 10 minutes. Add the fish pieces starting with the firmest - carp and eel first, perch and pike 5 minutes later. Cook over a low heat for 15 to 20 minutes depending on the thickness of the pieces. Carefully remove the fish, stir the crème fraîche into the sauce, reduce for a further 5 minutes, adjust seasoning. Return the fish to the sauce to warm through. Serve scattered with chopped parsley.

Accompaniments and Serving

Matelote of the Rhine is traditionally served with fresh Alsatian pasta - Spätzle or Knepfle - which absorb the Riesling sauce beautifully. Steamed potatoes or white rice make lighter alternatives. Presenting it in the casserole at the centre of the table, with the fish clearly visible in their pearlescent sauce, is part of the ritual. For drinks, the choice is clear: an Alsatian Riesling Grand Cru, ideally the same as used in cooking, will elevate the flavours of the dish. A dry, mineral Pinot Blanc is a more accessible alternative.

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Variations and Evolutions

The traditional recipe lends itself to a few interesting variations:

• Matelote with Pinot Noir: a more rustic and fuller version, using Alsatian Pinot Noir instead of Riesling - the sauce takes on a beautiful ruby colour and more tannic notes
• Matelote with crayfish: a festive version with the addition of noble crayfish, a crustacean once abundant in Alsatian waterways, for an even more refined dish
• Simplified version: for a more accessible version, limit to two fish - carp and pike - increasing the proportions of each

Whichever version is chosen, Matelote of the Rhine remains a dish for sharing and conviviality, emblematic of this Alsatian riverside cuisine that deserves to be rediscovered and passed on.

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