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Epiphany, celebrated on 6 January, is the occasion throughout France to share a galette des Rois. But depending on whether one is north or south of the Loire, or indeed in Alsace, the tradition differs profoundly. In northern and central France, a puff pastry cake filled with almond frangipane is eaten. In the south, it is a brioche crown garnished with candied fruits. In Alsace, it is this latter tradition that prevails, inherited from Germanic and Rhenish influence: the Dreikönigskuchen, or Three Kings cake.
This crown-shaped brioche, scented with orange blossom and lemon zest, garnished with colourful candied fruits and crunchy pearl sugar, is a festive and convivial cake shared with the family on Epiphany. As throughout France, a charm is hidden in the brioche: whoever finds it is crowned king or queen for the day.
The tradition of the Dreikönigskuchen is shared between Alsace, German-speaking Switzerland, southern Germany and Austria. In these regions, the crown-shaped brioche has always been preferred to the puff pastry galette, considered a Parisian speciality. This tradition dates back at least to the 16th century, when Alsatian bakers prepared enriched brioche breads for religious holidays.
The crown shape is symbolic: it represents the crown of the Magi who, according to Christian tradition, came to pay homage to the Infant Jesus twelve days after his birth. The colourful candied fruits adorning the brioche evoke the precious stones of this royal crown.
For the brioche dough: dissolve 20g fresh yeast in 10cl warm milk. In a large bowl, mix 500g flour, 80g sugar, a pinch of salt, 3 eggs, 100g soft butter, 2 tablespoons orange blossom water and the zest of one lemon. Add the yeast and milk mixture and knead for 10 minutes until a smooth and elastic dough forms. Cover and leave to rise for 1.5 hours at room temperature until the dough has doubled in volume.
For shaping: knock back the dough, gently incorporate 80g diced candied fruits and hide the charm. Form a ball, then hollow out the centre with your fingers to form a crown shape. Place on a baking sheet lined with baking paper. Cover and leave to rise for a further 45 minutes.
For finishing and baking: brush the brioche with beaten egg. Garnish the top with whole or cut candied fruits and pearl sugar. Bake at 170°C for 25 to 30 minutes until the brioche is well golden. Leave to cool on a wire rack before serving.
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The Alsatian kings' brioche has many variations depending on the family and the baker. Some add raisins soaked in rum or kirsch to the dough for extra richness. Others incorporate flaked almonds or chopped hazelnuts into the topping. In some families, a vanilla-scented pastry cream is slipped inside the crown before baking for an even richer version.
The charm can be a simple dried bean, a porcelain or plastic figurine representing a nativity character, or a miniature object. Tradition has it that the youngest child at the table hides under the table and calls out aloud to whom each slice belongs, thus avoiding any cheating in the distribution of slices.
The sharing of the galette des Rois is a ritualised moment that repeats each year with the same excitement. The brioche is cut into as many slices as there are guests, plus one extra slice - the "poor man's share" or "God's share" - reserved for any unexpected visitor. Whoever finds the charm in their slice receives the golden cardboard crown, becomes king or queen and chooses their king or queen from among the guests.
In Alsace, this tradition is particularly vibrant in schools and associations, where the galette des Rois is shared in groups in the first days of January. Alsatian bakeries offer kings' brioches of all sizes, from individual versions to large crowns that can serve around ten people.
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The Alsatian kings' brioche is traditionally enjoyed with a hot drink: hot chocolate, coffee or tea according to preference. For a festive meal, a glass of Crémant d'Alsace brut is the most elegant pairing: its fine bubbles and freshness contrast pleasantly with the buttery richness of the brioche. A medium-dry Riesling or a slightly sweet Gewurztraminer also accompany this orange blossom-scented cake very well.
To complete the Epiphany table, a beautiful artisan Alsatian jam - mirabelle, quetsch or raspberry - served alongside the brioche allows everyone to personalise their slice according to taste. Flavoured butters or thick crème fraîche are also very good accompaniments to enrich this already generous brioche.
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